The art of food at Dubai's Molecule

Tuesday, Apr 18, 2017

First impressions: We are entering a honeycomb.

Dubai Design District is a charming front for artsy fare. But getting lost here is easy.

When we set out to visit Molecule — a new concept restaurant based on bistronomie, which focuses on the use of fresh seasonal products combined with regional flavours — we took about 20 minutes to find the spot. (It’s on the right side of building six, past the reception and inside what looks like a metal construction wrap.)

The tiny board that labels it makes Molecule kind of hipster. The message seems to be: If you don’t know it, it ain’t meant for you.

That said, everything else about this place will make you want to beg to stay just a few more minutes. The smartly dressed staff (in sneakers!) are helpful and quick to deliver. The art on the wall and the unusual roof — a cosy, protruding installation — are a pleasure of see. When we got there, the works of Amir H. Fallah were featured (thanks to a collaboration with Third Line Gallery).

So the romance begins with a beautiful vision. And you know you’ve given up your heart when the appetisers are brought. The food, for me, was love at first bite.

The staff push for signature Molecule dishes, and if you are loathe to experiment, go for it: they are wonderful. We tried the signature salad — with carrots, celery, chicory, baby gem, tomato-oregano chips and a hazelnut-almond dressing — which was earthy and flavourful. And along came tiger prawns that had been marinated — and cooked — to perfection.

Next up was a beautiful medium-rare steak with tempting sweet potato fries. The cut came with some marbling though, so if you are watching your cholesterol, tell them about the cut you’d prefer.

We then dug into the lamb rack, served on a bed of roasted garlic and shallots, a meaty bonanza. The vegetables that came with the lamb, roasted, not wok fried, were crunchy, slightly sweet and seasoned just right.

It was amazing that while we were limited by our choices — there are bigger portions of certain dishes such as the whole shoulder of lamb and whole roasted truffle chicken — our picks from the menu did not invite rebuke.

We ended on a sugar-fuelled note: A chocolate banana cake. [It tasted like fudge, had the consistency of a frozen sponge treat, and none of that fruit flavour.]

Guess it really is like a honeycomb: a sweet, sweet treat.

By Karishma H. ?Nandkeolyar, Copy Editor