07 July 2009

Editor's Note: This is the first in a series of articles The Daily Star will be publishing to introduce rea?ders to Lebanon's summer tourist attractions and venues.

TYRE: Dylan wrote of her in his very last song. Shakespeare spoke of her tempestuous sea. Wilde pined for his "Tyrian galley," and the Bible warned sailors of that "crowning city," filled to the brim with mischief and splendor. For centuries, the old city of Tyre has been personified by poets and dramatized by playwrights. But its bounty and beauty has meant that the city has often fallen prey to foreign aggression - beginning with the Greeks and Romans, and most recently, to Syrians and Israelis.

The 1975-90 Civil War and the 2006 Israeli bombing have debilitated the tourism industry, and little infrastructure remains to optimize the rich heritage of Tyre. The 2006 offensive was particularly damaging, as many of the ruins - Tyre's main attractions - were badly destroyed, some remaining irreparable to this day. Regardless, some argue that in recent years, this very obstruction has been a cause for increased tourism, with curious onlookers being drawn to bear witness to the destruction caused by the conflict.

Despite potential for growth, much needed infrastructure is still absent. Affordable accommodation is difficult to find, and no English-language guides are available at any of the sites. While the fish harbor and the Corniche are lined with quaint family-owned cafes and restaurants, it is difficult to discern which ones are worth the visit.

Yet Tyre is close enough to Beirut for a day trip, and the ruins often speak for themselves. There are no Zagat guides to shepherd you in your culinary ventures, but Tyre is a small enough city to venture on foot, and half the fun comes from letting the city, the friendly locals, and a sense of adventure serve as your tour guide.

With this in mind, head south from the northern-most tip of the city, and the palm trees that line the corniche will slowly give way to magnificent Roman ruins. The area is gated off, with only a few granite columns to hint at its former glory.

From here, a brisk five-minute walk will take you to another ancient site. A LL6,000 entrance fee will buy you a walk through an impressive expanse of Romano-Byzantine ruins over-looking the Mediterranean. There you will see the remains of a market place to the right, and an athlete's training ground to the left. Walk along the columns and the outgrown grass, and you will come across the colonnade and the public baths on both sides. Many such remains exist in the south, if not all of the Levant, but they are magnificent nevertheless.

The end of the walking tour will take you to the Egyptian port, where modern-day white-water-sport fans mix with burqa-wearing day swimmers. The long skies are met with the Prussian blue of the Mediterranean, and there is a welcoming salty tang in the air as you get closer to the sea.

One major shortcoming, however, is the severe absence of waste management. This has resulted in the ever-present litter that has become an unwanted fixture in the otherwise picturesque landscape.

Once you have wet your archaeological appetite with the colonnades and the baths, take a 20-minute walk into heart of the city (or a LL1,000 service) to the last and most stunning site, known to house the largest Roman hippodrome in the world. Scattered throughout are the remains of opulence and wealth in elaborate designs and ornate carvings, paying homage to the Roman empire of the past.

When you have had your fill of the Roman ruins, walk back toward the sea for a late afternoon swim and sunsets. Beaches of Tyre are much less commercialized (no entrance fees), wholeheartedly adopting the do-it-yourself philosophy of self-made fun. The usual beach staple of sand castles and parasols mix with argiles and the smell of freshly roasted Turkish coffee. It is a surreal scene, and when the crimson sun reddens over the Mediterranean, the bursts of scarlet resemble the "geranium kiss" that Wilde spoke so eloquently about.

Many travel guides also list the Tyre Beach Nature Reserve, as a small but important reserve serving as "sanctuary for birds, endangered turtles, bats and other wildlife."

However, despite its promise of "a beautiful stretch of golden sandy beach," the reserve, located in the heart of the Rachidiye refugee camp, is not the easiest to find. When asked for directions, many locals merely pointed at the nearby public beach. One woman remarked, "I've lived here for 10 years, and have never heard of it!"

Ecotourism zealots, however, shouldn't be deterred. There has been a concerted effort to promote the development of eco and rural tourism, as it is perceived to be an effective means of fighting poverty and creating jobs in the local community. The Tourism Ministry has been actively promoting such alternate models of tourism, comments Joseph Haimari, special adviser to the of tourism minister.

Haimari explains that the ministry has been employing creative avenues, such as the public and private partnership, and measures to make the most of the celebrated Lebanese hospitality. "Our main asset is not the private sector, but the strong will of the Lebanese people ... The south will be like a phoenix rising again from her ashes ... Tyre will be born again."

Copyright The Daily Star 2009.