28 August 2010

BATROUN: If the neighborhood of Gemmayzeh has become one of the leading nightlife centers in Greater Beirut, the northern city of Batroun has seen a similar boom in recent years, making it one of the “in” places on the country’s tourism and leisure map.

Batroun’s share of the tourism wave of 2010 is relatively low compared to leading locales such as Beiteddine and Baalbek, but Batroun has welcomed over 25,000 tourists this season, which tourism groups say is a significant improvement over last year, a record-setting season for Lebanon.

Batroun and its surrounding areas contain a number of hotels and resorts such as St. Stephano, Sawary, Aqualand and Batroun Village Club, which have luxurious chalets and cabins on the Mediterranean. It has been a “fully booked season,” according to the locals.

Batroun has several aspects that attract tourists from all over the world including Europe, Russia, Japan and the entire Lebanese diaspora. The tourists vary widely in age, and are attracted to both day trips and the nightlife.

Most newcomers manage to visit the main tourist sites such as the Phoenician maritime wall, the old cathedrals of St. Stephen’s and Our Lady of the Sea, while tasting the famous lemonade sold by the majority of the cafés and restaurants on the town’s main street.

For Christa, 23, a tourist from France, Batroun has a very fun and laid-back atmosphere.

“I’ve been coming here for the past three summers with my friends from all over Europe, we don’t let one pass without enjoying this charming town,” Christa said.

“What distinguishes it from other big cities such as Beirut or Jounieh is that you can take advantage of daytime activities, and continue on enjoying the festive night atmosphere.”

The smaller size of Batroun makes it more of a classic beach town. “People here are more easygoing, you can show up at the beach in your shorts and flip flops, spend the days windsurfing, jet skiing or just enjoying the sun, and hit the party immediately after,” she said.

Tourists, whether domestic or foreign, are usually impressed by the fresh and relatively inexpensive seafood available at many restaurants in Batroun restaurants.

“I usually come here every Sunday for lunch,” said visitor Joseph Haddad. “The kids enjoy the beach and we enjoy the food … We’re from Baabda but we like Batroun’s seafood, its straight from the water and the prices are reasonable.”

On the downside, tourists also complained about the lack of available and affordable one-night stays in hotels and hostels.

“Hotel rooms are usually fully booked months before the start of the summer season,” said a staff member of the St. Stephano beach and resort. However, visitors consider the rates quite steep for people on a strict budget.

Another inconvenience cited frequently was the difficulty of transportation inside the town, whereas in Beirut taxis and services are abundant.

The country’s infrastructure problems were on display during 2009’s record year of tourism, and this year the common complaint, especially in the north, was water.

Residents of the coastal city have become used to such problems, but for those who are on vacation, worrying about a lack of water puts a dent in the tourist experience.

“We are used to it here. Buying our water isn’t something new, but for those who come to visit … it counts,” said one local.

To ensure their water needs, people purchase a tank of water, which costs LL25,000-LL35,000 ($16-$24), anywhere from one to several times a week, meaning the costs quickly build up for long-term summer visitors.

“I’m fed up with this water thing; sometimes we are surprised by the unavailability of water at a late-night hour,” said Kimbely Khoury, 45, who is visiting Lebanon with her family during the summer season.

Meanwhile, a major boost for the cause of tourism in the city is the annual Batroun International festival, held in August. On Friday, President Michel Sleiman arrived to take in the final performance of a play about Gebran Khalil Gebran.

Joe Youssef, a member of the event’s organizing committee, said the festival was classified as “international” by the Tourism Ministry last year after it met the criteria set down by the ministry.

Committee members are positive and satisfied with the results of this year’s events.

“Considering the budget, the result was fantastic,” Youssef said, adding that last year’s qualification translated into an undisclosed amount of financial aid for this year’s version.

The festival sought the participation of figures such as the famous Brazilian photographer Carlos Freire, who established a workshop along with 25 students from a number of Lebanese universities and generated an exhibition under the theme of “Le Liban que j’aime et que je n’aime pas,” or “The Lebanon I love and don’t love.”

But despite the committee’s efforts to promote tourism in Batroun by authoring a comprehensive plan and securing facilities and services for tourists, such as the recruitment of tour guides and the organization of daytime and nighttime events, the initiatives don’t easily translate into reality.

“There’s always the financial problem,” Youssef said.

Tourism Minister Fadi Abboud said “Batroun is one of the most beautiful cities on the Mediterranean and I will work my best to assist in developing its tourism,” during a visit to the town earlier this summer.

While promises by government officials often leave the public wondering about the follow-through, the Tourism Ministry did open an office in Batroun in May, raising hopes that at the least things are moving in the right direction.

Copyright The Daily Star 2010.