In the sacred month of Ramadan, when the sun rises and sets with spiritual significance, another ritual unfolds within the walls of bustling restaurants—one that largely goes unnoticed. As the faithful abstain from food and drink from dawn till dusk, restaurant workers across the country labour tirelessly, driven by a sense of duty and faith, to serve those who come to break their fast with warmth, generosity, and unwavering commitment.

Amidst the clinking of cutlery and the savoury aromas, lies their silent dedication. Beginning from the pre-dawn hours, while the world still slumbers, these dedicated individuals gather in the kitchen to prepare Ramadan sweets and feasts throughout the day, as the restaurants continue to pulsate with energy and activity during the fasting hours. Every worker, from the dishwasher to the head chef, is bound together by a shared purpose and deep-rooted sense of community.

As we enter Al Rageef Bakery, located in the heart of Dubai’s Al Karama neighbourhood, we see Egyptian server Mosbah El Gebaly standing behind the counter, his hands moving with practised precision, as he wraps parcels of fresh-off-the-oven manakish and sizzling shawarma.

Despite the grumbling of his empty stomach and the parched sensation in his throat, Mosbah’s focus remains unwavering. For him and his colleagues, all of whom are fasting, this is not just a job; it is a testament to their faith and commitment. “All of us are family here; there’s no tiredness. If anyone feels tired, we can sit and rest,” says Mosbah, who’s been working in the bakery, formerly known as Al Reef Bakery, for over 15 years.

“Alhamdulillah, even if I were to die from fasting during Ramadan, I still wouldn’t break my fast. This sentiment holds true for all of us,” he adds.

More than just a duty

The atmosphere in these restaurants is alive with chatter and laughter, but amidst the hustle and bustle, the workers maintain their composure. Sheikh Gayasuddin, waiter at Al Karama’s renowned Mughlai restaurant Arsalan, moves gracefully between tables, his smile never faltering despite the fatigue that threatens to weigh him down. With each serving tray, he carries not only food but also a silent prayer for strength and perseverance.

“It doesn't seem difficult; when Ramadan comes for a month, there is a lot of happiness in feeding people. We are feeding people, and we are also fasting; there is happiness on both ends,” says Gayasuddin, originally from Odisha, India.

Fasting every Ramadan since the last 15 years, he has not missed even a single day of fasting and continues to work his twelve-hour shift during the holy month. “The opportunity of fasting comes once a year; we fast for Allah. Until Allah’s command comes, we don't eat. That is the call to prayer (azaan). When he gives us the signal, we eat.”

During Ramadan, Mohammed Jahed, working for the ever-so-busy Al Hara cafeteria, finds himself in a unique state of mind where the desire for food seems to fade away. “I don't feel like eating at all,” he shares.

“I don't have any problems; I serve tea and water all the time. Yesterday, I went for a medical check-up for visa renewal and everyone was drinking bottles of water after, but I didn't feel like having anything. I came straight to work.”

For these restaurant workers, serving food during the day is not simply a duty; it is a labour of love, an affirmation to their faith, and a celebration of the bonds that unite them as a community.

“Most people working [at Al Hara] are fasting, even those who’re cooking. We don't have any issues serving people; during Ramadan, we forget everything,” says Jahed, who’s been working at the cafeteria ever since he moved to Dubai in 2012.

“This is my seventh Emirates ID starting from today,” he mentions proudly.

According to the 30-year-old Bangladeshi server, “Keeping oneself clean, fasting, and reciting the Quran fills the heart—and stomach”. “After reciting the prayer, it feels like we have eaten something, similar to the feeling after having a whole meal,” he explains.

Fasting while the(ir) world eats

On the other hand, Riedwan Dafoui, a Moroccan native currently serving at Al Barajeel Mandi & Mazbi restaurant, admits that he initially found it challenging to serve people during Ramadan, especially witnessing others eat while he fasted.

“In Morocco, Ramadan is observed differently, with families cooking at home rather than relying on takeaways like in Dubai. Eating in public during fasting hours is not allowed, whereas it is acceptable in Dubai,” says Riedwan, who moved to the city four years ago in search of better opportunities in terms of finances and lifestyle.

“After having spent four years in Dubai, now I have adjusted to it. I have no problem,” he adds. Though, he admits that seeing his favourite Moroccan dish, Tagine, can be tempting but has learned to manage it. “If I see someone eating that I may find it a little hard, but otherwise it's fine (laughs).”

Despite being surrounded by food at work, Riedwan finds strength in fasting, believing it makes him physically and spiritually stronger. “I don't feel tired. In fact, I have more energy. When you're fasting, your body becomes stronger,” he adds. “Fasting means everything to me because since birth, this is how I've seen my family, praying and fasting.”

The true spirit of Ramadan

Mosbah, whose work day begins at around 5:30am soon after the morning prayer called Fajr, spends his entire fasting day at the restaurant without any food and water. Yet, the staff seem as happy as ever, with no tiredness on their faces and no complaints. “The manager is like our friend. We’re allowed to take rest when needed,” he adds.

Responding to the questions in between his orders, there’s absolutely no stopping for the Egyptian server, referred to as ‘Captain’ by his colleagues at the bakery — even if it is to give an interview. “After preparing the food, I take rest in the afternoon and then return to work. If we have too many customers, we perform our prayers right here. Iftar is provided to us by the restaurant. Today, we will be having Indian food,” says Mosbah, as he prepares dishes with clockwork precision.

“After iftar, all of us gather together like friends and family. We break our fasts together, and all the fatigue of the day fades away. Everyone is welcome to join us, eat some food, have tea, water, and dates,” he adds.

The restaurants open shop in the morning, with a steady stream of people coming in throughout the day, peaking around the iftar time. “Physically, there is a little fatigue, but as soon as iftar arrives, all tiredness disappears, and we become fresh again. If we feel a little exhausted in between work, we can go and rest at the back,” says Gayasuddin.

As the sun begins its descent towards the horizon, the call to prayer echoes through the air. In this moment of quiet reflection, the true spirit of Ramadan shines through. “We break our fast here itself after praying in the alley because at that time, customers are already waiting. Once everyone has been served, we can enjoy our iftar,” he adds.

All about the mindset

Zahed, who’d soon be breaking his fast with a light pack of fruits quickly resuming his duty, argues its more about the power of the mind than the strength of the body. “During this period, our intention is very strong, so we don't feel hungry,” he adds.

“If this were any other usual month, our mindset would be different, and we would naturally feel very hungry.” Close to iftar, he says, “I am not feeling hungry even now; I can go on working for another 8-9 hours without eating.” Such is the spirit of Ramadan.

“You know, I work in a restaurant, so my stomach is always full,” Riedwan remarks with a chuckle. “There's food everywhere. If I'm hungry, I can go to the chef and ask for food. It’s the same for all the restaurants; we're always full. Nowhere will you see a hungry staff member who wants to eat. You’ll see us running around, laughing. It's a fun job,” he adds.

Moreover, customers who find out that the staff is fasting often request not to be served out of respect. “But we have to tell them that this is our job, and we have to serve food. Regular customers tell us to keep the food and move away as soon as possible,” says Gayasuddin. “If the customers find out we’re fasting, they avoid calling us again and again,” adds Riedwan.

Ramadan, then and now

If you were raised in or relocated to Dubai approximately a decade ago, you might recall the distinctiveness of the holy month over the years. In the past, during fasting hours, until an hour before Maghrib, restaurants, cafes, and food establishments used to remain closed. However, as the years passed and an increasing number of expats settled in, the city revised its Ramadan regulations.

“When I joined Arsalan in 2018, there used to be only takeaways; nobody used to come and dine in. For the past three years, the entire restaurant has been open,” recalls Gayasuddin “Now, it's business as usual; nothing stops. It's like a normal day at work, but even those who are fasting have to watch others eat.”

“Earlier, eating outside was not allowed, but now everything is allowed,” says Zahed, as he swiftly moves through the flurry of cars parked outside the landmark food joint.

“Back in the day, I’d have to stand in front of the gas to fry samosas, pakodas from 1pm to 7pm because I had kitchen duties. That was really difficult because it was during peak summer. This year, weather-wise, it’s the nicest Ramadan.”

Ramadan, in the past, bore stark differences from its current form. With the influx of diverse nationalities, the landscape has evolved. “Now, we witness a rich tapestry of cultures, each contributing its unique flavours and traditions,” says Rabie Abdelaziz Elmougi, manager of Al Rageef Bakery, established in 1942 as one of the oldest bakeries in Dubai. “In the past, restaurants would shut their doors during fasting hours, and the sight of people eating inside cars was rare. Now, everything is normal.”

In the kitchen: Is it different?

Surrounded by tantalising aromas and mouthwatering ingredients, what might be the unique challenges of fasting as a chef during the holy month? Abdulmeonem Houmaidi, chef at Al Dar Garden Restaurant, Emirates Park Zoo and Resort in Abu Dhabi, explains, "It takes a certain level of discipline to resist the urge to indulge."

With over three decades of experience, he adds, “I’ve developed a certain level of immunity to the sensation of hunger when surrounded by food. My focus remains steadfast on ensuring the quality and presentation of each dish, which distracts from any feelings of hunger.”

Fasting during Ramadan presents its own set of physical challenges, particularly during busy periods in the kitchen. However, the gratification of seeing satisfied guests savouring their meals outweighs any temporary discomfort. “It is not just about abstaining from food and drink during daylight hours; it is also about curating a delightful culinary experience for those breaking their fast,” says the Syrian chef.

Mohamed Fathy, junior sous chef at 25hours Hotel One Central, adds, “I feel more energetic during fasting. It's more of a spiritual fast than a physical one. Plus, as a chef, it's a real honour to run the iftar buffet. There's something special about seeing everyone come together to break their fast, feeling that connection and sense of togetherness—it's incredibly rewarding.”

The only real challenge, he adds, is not being able to taste the food while cooking. “But since we work with people from various nationalities and religions at the hotel, they assist in tasting dishes that require sampling before it’s served to the guests,” says Fathy, originally from Egypt. “Most importantly, understanding the importance of fasting beyond just food, focusing on self-control and patience helps maintain the discipline,” adds Rizwan Qureshi, chef, SĀN Beach, West Palm Jumeirah.

In the kitchen, there also exists a shared sense of respect for each other's religious observances, which fosters a supportive and inclusive environment where chefs and staff come together. “It is one of the privileges of working in an Arabic country, there’s a greater understanding and respect for people who are fasting,” says Fathy.

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