13 August 2014
TRIPOLI, Lebanon: Every summer, the Palm Islands, a chain of islands rich with native flora and fauna, offer a diverse set of visitors a sun-soaked respite less than 10 nautical kilometers from the embattled city of Tripoli. Consisting of three main offshore islands, the UNESCO-protected site offers visitors a forgotten environmental treasure in Lebanons northern waters for a ferry fee of LL5,000.
The offshore swimming spot has remained a tourist draw this season despite fragile security in the city and northern parts of the country. Vacationers queue daily around Tripolis port, to hitch a ride with local fisherman to the Palm Islands.
Salim Anous, one of the Tripolitan sea captains, is a boat owner and fisherman. During the hot summer days, he leaves his fishing work to ferry visitors to the islands.
With angular features and a carefully trimmed beard, Anous reminds one of a 19th-century philosopher and imposes his authority on the beach. He indicates for any newcomer to step aside and wait while he prepares his boat with the help of a few young men.
Priority is for journalists and families, he tells a bunch of teenagers, before setting off toward the islands.
This is the only area in Lebanon that was offered Gods blessing of having offshore islands, Anous says. Despite this, our touristic capacity is still very modest.
The first stop is Sanani Island, favored by families seeking a peaceful sunny day on the beach.
The next stop is the largest of the three islands, Palm Island, more commonly known as Rabbit Island due to the great numbers of rabbits raised on it during the French mandate. Palm Island was declared a natural reserve in 1992 and houses a beautiful sandy beach, palm trees and well-trodden paths; it is the main destination for Anous passengers.
After the main island, the boat makes its final stop at Ramkine Island, also known as Fanar Island.
A state of neglect has befallen most of the countrys remaining public beaches, and many are littered with a seasons worth of garbage. The heritage status of Tripolis islands has done little to protect them from meeting the same fate, and now bottles, cans, waste and dirt have piled up and eroded their charm.
Local municipal authorities have no hand in maintaining the site. Instead, the Environment Ministry appointed three men as environmental monitors; they focus mainly on offering services to ferry boats and other seafarers.
From his tidy, air-conditioned office, Amer Haddad, head of the Environment Protection Committee, explains that his team is exploring ways to develop seven islands off the coast of Tripoli.
Parliament issued a law that makes the islands a natural reserve and allows the establishment of touristic and investment projects on them. But that law was never applied, he says.
One of environmental committees proposals would establish specific sea routes to the islands and offer official ferries for visitors. The project would cost less than $2 million, Haddad says. There was also the Biaa Bay proposal, a $10 million development project similar to Beiruts swanky Zaitunay Bay.
But the problem, as I said, is in the financial part ... We havent found anyone to care for this environmental treasure, he laments.
Haddad argues that these coastal development projects would provide jobs and help stimulate the local economy. It could also invigorate other tourist projects that would be good economically for Tripoli, a city with widespread poverty.
The main goal is to improve the social and economic situation for Tripolis residents through the development of environmental tourism, he says. But the biggest problem lies in the absence of touristic offices to welcome visitors in Tripoli, a city that has natural beauty and valuable historic monuments.
Khaled Ezz, a young man lying on the beach and a frequent visitor of Rabbit Island, prefers Palm Islands beach to any mainland site, despite the waste strewn about him.
Here the water is very clean and is not polluted, unlike other beaches, he says, and I spend the whole day for only LL5,000, and I bring my own food and drink.
The countrys cleanest beaches are in the care of private companies, but frequent visitors like Ezz prefer that the islands remain public and inexpensive, despite the untidiness.
Of course these islands are in need of many services, he adds, And its possible to develop them, but honestly we fear losing the fun if touristic companies came and invested in them. We like it just the way it is.
By the look of the island, many share his opinion. Every day the island bustles with people cooking on makeshift barbecues, playing music or fishing.
At sunset, Anous sets off his boat whistle, calling everyone back to the boat so that they can make the journey back to Tripoli. The trip takes approximately an hour, and is included in the initial ferry price.
No one stays on the island, and there are naval patrols by Lebanese Army units that make sure the islands are completely evacuated, Anous says. We also make sure we brought everyone back before dark.
Copyright The Daily Star 2014.
