April 2012
A modest small scale beginning  and then pushing ahead with constant hard work is believed to have worked for Omani fashion designers and is one of the reasons behind the slow-paced, yet definite success of the Omani fashion industry.

In the Middle East, where UAE is emerging as a global fashion hub, backed by the high spending power and a strong fashion sense of its consumers, supported by government, the fashion industry in Oman is in a different phase of development altogether.

At present, it is undergoing a metamorphosis, but the very pace of change in outlook is gradual. Leading Omani fashion designers say that they started their business on a small scale, operating mostly from home, showcasing their designs at family functions. Afaf al Farsi and Aida al Farsi, the two names behind the successful brand Dibaj, say that their foray into the fashion industry was inspired by their grandmother and mother.

"We were always interested in fashion in some way or the other, whether it be fabrics or cuts and colours. We were mostly influenced by our grandmother, who taught us how to make the right use of fabric, how to choose the right material and create a great design. All our collections in Dibaj are very deeply influenced by what we have learned from them," says Afaf. 

Nawal al Hooti, the creator of sultanate's successful brand Nawal Art, agrees to the fact that the most of the Omani designers have started their business ventures within their family, emphasising that the lack of financial support and technology are also the reasons behind this.

"In the past, there were no fashion related studies or private fashion designing colleges in Oman. Women in Oman didn't venture out of their houses very often due to strict parental regimes, so those who wanted to pursue fashion designing, gathered information from magazines, books and TV programmes.

I learned the intricacies of stitching from my mother and aunt, and till date all my collections resemble what I learned in the past," she says. However, designers like Nawal also believe that having a formal degree in fashion designing definitely gives an added advantage when it comes to honing creative talent.

The changing scenario

Though Omani fashion designers are always experimenting and innovating within the scope of traditional sensibilities, they are aware of contemporary global trends in fashion and try to incorporate them into their designs in the local context.

The Muscat Fashion Week, held about three months ago was such an endeavour. It saw some of the big names in the Omani fashion industry showcase their designs, which have changed the face of the industry in Oman. These designers had started their business on a very small scale, as it was difficult to garner funds. In the absence of patrons, investment had to be made from their own pockets.

Hazar al Zadjali, the name behind Boutique Muscat, says that initial investments are difficult to get, and till date very little has changed as the lack of financial support from the government or other agencies are still an issue. "It is quite difficult to get permissions from the ministry, and get the labour clearances approved. It is a relatively closed market, compared to our other counterparts. Trying to establish yourselves in a market such as this is quite a daunting task," she adds.

Amal al Raisi, owner of Dar al Aseel, says that along with the problem of getting the clearances, it is also very difficult to find skilled labour in Oman.

"To make things work your way, you need to have good labour, which is very difficult to get here. This is one of the hardest things for me since it is an essential factor in designing. It is a long process, takes a long time, and is very exhausting. Also there is a lack of talented designers in the sultanate who can produce quality work," she says. 

Current trends

Industry experts believe that with a host of new international brands coming into the market and new shopping centres opening up for the fashionistas, the fashion scenario in Oman is definitely looking up and there has been a huge shift in the sector from what it was five years ago.

Lara Ayoub, head of the fashion department, Higher College of Technology, says that with the advent of the Muscat Fashion Week three years ago and also exhibitions of new Omani fashion designers showcasing their creations at various international shows, the fashion scenario in Oman has undergone a sea change.

"A lot of new international brands have been launched in Oman, which have left people asking for more varieties. Numerous numbers of shopping centres have also added to the frenzy. People have started emphasising on fashion, which is definitely bringing in a positive change in the industry," she says.

Maaroof A Maaroof, head of fashion design department, Scientific College of Design, says that with more and more younger people showing their interest in fashion designing, the industry is definitely undergoing a change for good. "Omani fashion designers are very few in number, since a career in fashion designing is not as valued as others. However, it is slowly beginning to pick up, with more and more young people showing their interest in designing."

Reaching out

Designers in the industry say that publicity through social media and word of mouth  plays a crucial role when it comes to marketing their own labels. Afaf says that it is very important to keep themselves at par with the international brands when it comes to marketing their products. "Now, a lot also depends on social media and word of mouth publicity.

It plays an important role, since our customers who like us, recommend us to their friends and family. Also the Muscat Fashion Week has helped us in reaching out to the international fashion arena, which has definitely provided us with a bigger platform to showcase our creations."

Nawal echoes the same, but adding that more than social media, fashion shows have helped her grow as a fashion designer and have given her the opportunity to go global. "The fashion shows that I did, have helped me create a big impact on the minds of the fashion-conscious people in Oman. More and more people know me now and it has also helped me go global with my brand."

Fashion experts believe that the key to own a successful brand in a relatively closed market like Oman is to never give up trying. "Keep on trying until you succeed. Some days can be really bad, you would feel like giving up. But truly speaking, it is definitely an investment of money and hard work. It will work in your favour if you work hard. So, give all your efforts towards making it successful." 

Amal says that it is a dual combination of patience and hard work that works towards making a successful brand. "It can be difficult at times, given there are different kinds of issues which needs time and patience to be tackled. One should not lose patience and give up," she emphasises.

Fashion designers believe that the future of the industry lies in the hands of the young fashion designers, mostly women. They say that there is a dearth of male designers in Oman, since a career in fashion is considered appropriate only for women.

Says Lara, "Omani culture still maintains that fashion is for women and that it is a feminine profession. Hence society still does not encourage men to study fashion designing. They believe that it is not good enough for them as a career. It will take time to change and in the future we may see more and more Omani men take this up."

The fashion landscape is evidently in for a change. In their endeavour to blend Arab heritage with modernity for making fashion contemporary, Omani designers are slowly gaining ground in the Arab fashion world and gradually entering the global fashion arena.The government has also started extending its support to the young designers of Oman. More and more young aspirants are now opting for fashion designing as their career, which will determine the future of the fashion industry.

© businesstoday 2012