19 August 2006
Leaving Lebanon following the war is like leaving an old friend: you know you've shared good times and bad, but when it comes to it, you really don't want to part.

Yet there comes a time when you have to say goodbye no matter how attached you are, and this was exactly the way I felt about leaving the cedar country.

I first came to Lebanon on July 15, three days after the war started a terrible time when everyone had a fear of the unknown. I was also here as the ceasefire was pushed through, a time of joy for all.

Throughout that period I witnessed several sights that I will never forget for all the wrong reasons; yet I also met many, many good people.

Twice I travelled through the eastern border crossings worrying about whether the Israeli Air Force would blow up my taxi as I experienced the beautiful mountains and valleys that lead to Beirut's metropolis.

I had only been in Beirut for about half an hour when I heard the first chilling sound of bombs exploding.

Crashes like that, which often shook the windows of buildings kilometres away, were something I would never get used to even though there was never a day that passed when there wasn't an attack.

I visited the injured in Beirut's hospitals, including a woman who was nine months pregnant and had been caught in the bombings of Chiyah in southern Beirut.

I also met many of Lebanon's displaced in schools, churches and parks, some who had lost everything in the war yet were still optimistic and supportive of Hezbollah.

Then the interviews and tours with the United Nations and its various aid agencies all of whom are sending emergency supplies to different parts of the country revealed the ongoing humanitarian crisis gripping the country.

In Beirut itself I met my taxi driver, Souheil, who also doubled up as my translator, showing amazing patience and courage while driving me everywhere I needed to go.

Similarly Rafik, who owned a gift shop that was trading throughout the war, and Ibrahim, the sandwich shop owner who was always cheery despite the conflict.

The Lebanese made me feel truly welcome and showed me an amazing resilience and generosity.

After the ceasefire I was able to walk through the southern districts of Beirut and see first-hand the vast swaths of buildings that had been destroyed and smell the death that was lingering in the air.

I also travelled to the south through Sidon and on to Tyre and joined a United Nations mine-location team, which took me through many of the horrifically damaged towns and villages.

It was at this point that I was able to see the destruction of practically all the bridges and the full extent of the devastation that the Israeli attacks had caused.

The Israeli Defence force had done a thorough job of destroying the infrastructure of this country something that will take years to rebuild.

After the ceasefire, on the road to Tyre we saw hundreds of people with their cars packed with belongings struggle to get over the broken bridges while avoiding the huge craters.

Further south of the famous Litani River right up to the border with the Occupied Territories we could see the Israeli town of Kiryat Shemona. In this area a demining team was locating dozens of unexploded 500kilogramme bombs, some of which were on the streets, while others had come to rest in people's homes.

The dangers facing the people in these towns and villages is all too real, but they told me that they were proud of Hezbollah and they would rebuild their homes and lives and continue to support them.

On one of my last days in Lebanon, I also visited 14month-old Reem and her family in the Palestinian camp near Tyre and heard the tragic story of the many refugees who are still being hounded by the Israelis, albeit in another country.

To me this seemed to be Lebanon's story: a rich and diverse country plagued by war, but one that continues to be strong.

Yet the people here long for a lasting peace. Sadly this requires a greater willingness from the international community to get involved and him resolve some of the problems it created 60 years ago.

When all is said and done though, Lebanon is a place that I will undoubtedly visit again, hopefully when the country and its people are back on their feet. In the meantime I, like many, will continue to do all I can to help.

© Emirates Today 2006