Saturday, Nov 29, 2008
Gulf News
Cairo: Sitting outside his once thriving establishment in the Islamic part of Cairo, Mustafa Abdul Rahman pensively recalls the good old days.
"When I inherited this bathhouse from my father some 40 years ago, its clients came from all different classes, including the aristocrats and celebrated entertainers," says Abdul Rahman, known to his neighbours as Haj Mustafa.
"This hamam [bathhouse] used to be busy every day of the week, with separate sections for men and women. It was like a beehive. Thursdays would, however, be reserved for men."
Abdul Rahman's bathhouse is one of eight remaining public baths struggling for survival in this old part of the Arab world's most populous and sprawling capital.
"This bathhouse has been in my family for some 200 years. People would come here to enjoy the relaxing experience of having a steam bath," Abdul Rahman, 71, told Gulf News.
"The women's section of the bathhouse, usually operated by a female member of the family, was famous for providing pre-wedding services for girls. Known as hamam al arousa [the bride's bath], the treatment would include a steam bath and a wax. The whole place used to be fulled with the happy laughter of the brides and their friends."
"But those days are gone. Now I hardly have five clients a month," laments Abdul Rahman. "Our clients now are usually elderly people or those who have health problems like obesity and have received medical advice to take steam baths."
The first to introduce public baths in this country was Caliph Al Mo'ezz Lidin Allah of the Fatimid dynasty who ruled Egypt in the 10th century, according to historians. They estimate that more than 1,000 were built in the city at the time. That number, however, declined to 60 by the early 19th century.
Some early classics by Egypt's Nobel Laureate Najeeb Mahfouz, who died in 2006, were set in public baths. The name of one Cairo bathhouse is "Hamam Al Malatili," after the title of a novel by Esmail Wali Eddin, later made into a controversial film of the same name.
Obsolete
"The need for bathhouses has diminished as houses now have access to running water," says Abdul Rahman. "And for environmental reasons, the burning of wood and garbage to heat water for bathhouses has been banned. Electricity is now used, which is a financial burden. Besides, with the prices of land and properties skyrocketing in Cairo, many owners of such places have hurried to sell them to make a fortune," explains Abdul Rahman, whose children have taken up other professions.
"Today, young people are attracted to modern health spas, which charge exorbitantly for their services. The glory days of the bathhouse are gone and will not return."
Gulf News 2008. All rights reserved.
