25 February 2005

BEIRUT: The Beirut Corniche has always been known as the "vein" of the Lebanese coast and has long attracted both tourists and locals. In the 1970s, the Corniche was ranked as the seventh most beautiful seaside bay in the world. However, after the recent assassination of former Premier Rafik Hariri and the attempted murder of Marwan Hamade, the former economy minister the face of the Corniche has changed a lot.

Once an "always hyper" area, the seaside boardwalk has been almost deserted at sunset, leaving one to wonder if this quarter will return to its glorious past anytime soon.

"Sure it will," said Issam Kattar, a jogger who took advantage of his day off and the beautiful weather on Tuesday to run along the Corniche.

Kattar added: "It's 8 a.m. in the morning and none of the familiar faces I see every morning have shown yet. The number of joggers has diminished, nearly disappeared ever since the accident took place."

A few meters away, an employee of the famed Taj al-Moulouk bakery and restaurant was sweeping the shop's terrace, making sure that every table was in place for the daily service.

"I don't really think that this area scares people now," said the employee, who requested anonymity. "I believe it's a dark cloud and it will fade away as people will learn to slowly recover from the great loss they have just endured."

Despite the Corniche being her "favorite place on Earth," the restaurant's first customer of the day, Maria, said: "I know a lot of people who feel more or less reluctant to spend their time in this area ... my classmate had her birthday scheduled in a restaurant here in the area, but after the incident she changed her mind and booked in a restaurant in Beit Mery."

Hugging Beirut's Mediterranean coastline, the Ein al-Mreisseh neighborhood has long attracted tourists. However, it has now gained new infamy as being the site of Hariri's devastating assassination.

Last week's  bomb blast that killed Hariri and 16 others happened directly in front of the famous St.Georges Hotel, a landmark that was devastated during Lebanon's civil war and had recently started to be repaired.

Located at the very end of Beirut's Corniche, the St.Georges Hotel was a favorite watering hole for foreign diplomats, journalists and spies in the years following World War II. Visiting royals and presidents also slept in the hotel, outside  which the rich parked their luxury cars.

Before Feb. 14, walking down the Corniche at sunset was a unique experience. One could enjoy the sea breeze, trip over children playing and laughing with their parents, eye the lovers walking hand-in-hand buying "tormos" (lupin seeds) and "castana" (chestnuts) from the many local merchants.

But as of late the Corniche is quiet, almost deserted. And the questions remains: will this area ever return to its glorious past?