Lebanese designer's ethical fashion techniques causing worldwide stir

BEIRUT: Ziad Ghanem has been something of an aspirational figure to many young designers trying to break out into the high fashion scene the world over. His unique techniques and ethical methods of designing and creating new and original Haute Couture pieces have caught people’s imaginations and caused a storm in the fashion world. 

The deep-rooted stereotypical image of ethical fashion using old paper bags and bin liners is out, and glamour is in. Ghanem says: “People don’t need that message anymore. I’m about making ethical fashion glamorous and beautiful; it’s not about being boring and stereotypical in environmental fashion anymore.” 

Sourcing luxury fabrics from organic fabric producers, rubber and dyes from South America, using recycled clothes from vintage charity and consignment shops, and intricate assortments of fabrics are many of the environmentally conscious techniques that Ghanem has introduced to his work, proving that “green” ideas have a place in couture. 

Using scrap rubber from factories that can be re-melted and used in his designs as well as following principles of environmentally friendly printing and ethical working conditions, Ghanem says “it’s hard bringing ethics into fashion, with the costs of organic materials and dyes, as well as adhering to fair pay for workers bringing costs much higher than usual.” 

The cutting-edge style that Ghanem has in his new collection will be showcased at London Fashion Week on February 22, and will also be seen in shows in Mexico, Dubai, Qatar, and Russia. 

One thing you wouldn’t call his work is “classic.” His style is powerful, cheeky and unique. 

This month’s fashion collection has been demanding, he confides. “I am trying to make this my best collection ever,” he says. The edginess in Ghanem’s creations is clear to see, but he is also adamant on creating pieces that are wearable. 

Aiden Connor, Ghanem’s assistant, says the old ways of producing haute couture pieces carried with them a lot of guilt. Fur, child labor and unfair pay haunt the fashion industry, however, Ghanem’s ethical methods eschew such practices. 

Ghanem says that one of his goals is to dispel the image of haute couture as being an archaic, Parisian, classic-styled artistry and instead produce uniquely glamorous pieces that at the same time are cool, modern and comfortable. 

Ghanem gets emotional when he recounts that his fashion choices weren’t easy. He was often bullied by his society and family who were not convinced with his alternative approaches, but who now congratulate him on his immense success. 

Many of the top fashion designers in the Middle East have been in contact with him in a sign that they have begun to take notice of his uniqueness as an original cutting-edge force in the fashion world. In the beginning, the same people pressured him to follow a more traditional route in his designs. However, today’s fashion stars are calling him back as his style and vision have grabbed their attention like never before. 

His major success drew the attention of many in his industry around the world and he had the honor of representing Lebanon at the EcoChic Geneva fashion show and exhibition, which was a major event in collaboration with the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). The event looked to fashion designers to create a dramatic showpiece look out of sustainable textiles. Many of the designers turned to their cultural heritage and country’s myths and folklore for inspiration. 

Ghanem’s motivation came from his clients, who he says have given him all the acceptance and support that he needs. He is not concerned with appealing to the mass commercial market and churning out the predictable items that are on offer by most couture labels. Instead his interest lies in catering to his exclusive clients who are attracted to his independent, confident and artistic approach. 

Ghanem attracts an international following who come to him from countries around the world – including Japan and Hong Kong, the United States and many Arab countries – to buy unique pieces that will make them stand out in the crowd and which they know will be a distinctive and custom-made creation. Among his many fans are famous figures such as Lady Gaga, Orlando Bloom, Kelly Osbourne, and a long list of high profile actors, singers and performance artists. They like his luxurious, sophisticated and refined take on modern couture. It is this exclusivity that has been Ghanem’s asset in promoting himself. 

Alexis Knox, stylist and fashion editor of Notion and Drama magazines explains that “Ziad is inspired by his clients and they are inspired by him; they feed off each other. He has shown that couture can be fresh, young and innovative while at the same time saving the world.” 

However, she also criticizes many designers in the industry who have jumped on the ethical bandwagon, with blazing statements about saving the environment and planet. Instead she said designers needed to be more ethical about saving each other, not just the environment, i.e. being humane with workers and clients, with fair pay and reasonable hours for workers the industry employs, as well as providing couture pieces that do not use environmentally damaging methods such as fur, toxic dyes, wastage of materials etc. She adds that this was especially important at a time when the world is experiencing its biggest recession since the 1920’s. 

Tackling the fashion industry in the Middle East, Knox says the region is “starting to take notice of recycled fabrics and ethical couture, especially the young educated elite,” who are often more aware of alternative and playful fashion tastes in a traditional minded environment when attitudes toward fashion are examined . 

Many young designers in the region come to Ghanem for inspiration, and say that they see him as the epitome of what they want to achieve. But the young new talent that is trying to break into the cut-throat fashion world is often strangled by the long-standing fashion houses at the top.

Young Lebanese designer, Charbel Zoe El-Khoury says: “I don’t think the new designers are being encouraged and able to succeed with the new alternative styles and methods. The Lebanese mentality goes for the classic style of dresses like Elie Saab etc. This is what can be sold the most.” He adds that many top designers in the region go for the easy option of catering to the masses, instead of trying to come up with more imaginative and unique designs. 

On the new alternative and vintage trends sweeping through Lebanon, Khoury says that younger generations are more open and accepting of these new and playful tastes in fashion. 

However, countries in the region such as Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Lebanon are starting to see changes in the way young people dress. 

The region’s first ever vintage store which opened in Downtown Beirut in 2009 has not been able to keep up with the high demand of orders, symbolizing how much things have changed in recent times in Middle East’s fashion trends. 

 

Ziad Ghanem’s website: www.ziadghanem.co.uk.