24 July 2013

EHDEN, Lebanon: Every patch of evening traffic on the way to Kroum resort in Ehden sent the cars air-conditioning into a temper tantrum; and us, too, as a humid 32 degrees Celsius turned the drive into a sauna of burnt-rubber and car exhaust. When we climbed up the first bend from the valley village of Mazraat al-Nahr, however, the temperature took a noticeable turn as well. The windows went down, the scarf came on, and by the time we broke through the blanket of fog on the Ehden mountaintop, the temperature had plummeted to a brisk 18 degrees.

A cloud had taken a temporary pit stop on the village during its trip over the mountainous region of Zghorta. We could see nothing but what was directly in front of us, and even the roadside condominiums were suspended in fluffy grayness. It was through this that the Kroum compound, a development project still in its infancy, came into view.

Distance-wise, Ehden is about 120 kilometers from the capital Beirut. But its a universe away in terms of just about everything else: biodiversity, clean air, cool summer temperatures and tranquility. Perched on a mountain 1,200 meters above sea level and surrounded by north Lebanons natural wonders the Horsh Eden reserve and the Qadisha Valley, a cave-pocked, ascetics escape Ehden attracts thousands of visitors each summer.

Kroum was the latest edition to the resorts and hotels that dot Ehden when it opened for a pilot month last summer. This July, Kroum opened for its first full season, which will run until October or whenever the rainy season starts, said manager Sayed Accary.

Some parts of Kroum appeared very much like a project under construction.

For example, workers were finishing up the structure of the hotels soon-to-be outdoor club and lounge. But the essentials for the hotel were finished: a line of elegantly minimalist hotel rooms each with their own private balcony; a compound of luxury suites surrounding a pool and Jacuzzi; two massive, heated swimming pools; a poolside bar serving sandwiches and snacks; and, the real gem, Le Matbokh, a traditional Zghortian-style restaurant.

Kroum plucked much of its staff from the surrounding villages. The chefs were village ladies, and the various waiters, receptionists and other help were a smiling cadre of helpful and chatty young people. They escorted us directly from the car to Le Matbokh, where more of them were baking sesame kaak bread or grilling it with cheese.

When complete, Kroum will offer a contemporary fusion of urban modernism and mountain tradition. That contrast was already taking shape.

The utilitarian architecture and minimalist design scheme created a contemporary resort feel, so did quirky surprises like a three-person bicycle leaning against the entrance and poolside double beds. But Kroums management also preserved the best the area has to offer, namely its cuisine and dramatic landscape. The resort was built in a linear layout to give guests the best view possible.

Kroum sought to add a little urban sophistication to the nightlife scene in Ehden. Accary compared the future lounge, slated to open Aug. 1, to Beiruts Iris: a laid back, sunset to sunrise club with live music or DJs.

He estimated Ehden had around four night clubs, which all had more or less the same concept: Arabic music led by a man and his piano. Le Matbokh started hosting its own Arabic music nights with an emphasis on adding diversity to the local scene through oud players and local bands.

It was also Le Matbokh that grounded Kroum to its location by serving up Zghorta-specific so-called mother-to-daughter recipes.

There were five different kinds of baked kibbeh on the menu. The local rendition of arass were softball-sized kibbeh filled with rich melted animal fat. The kibbeh nayeh was made from goat meat, rather than beef and lamb fat, and a perfect, unadulterated bright pink. Locally made goat cheese called darfieyeh shared a plate with slices of watermelon. The loubiyeh bil zeit (green beans in olive oil) was tomato free, and a cold plate of chicken liver was doused in a deliciously sweet, paprika sauce.

There were of course Lebanese mezze staples prepared in their universal form, like hummus, mutabbal, garlic labneh, soujouk and makanik sausages, and shanklish (though here it was called by its local name jibjob).

The morning meal came complimentary with a stay at Kroum and consisted of any local breakfast dishes your heart desired: labneh, eggs still sizzling in olive oil, zaatar and cheese manakeesh, doughy pockets of butter and sugar, olives and varieties of homemade jam called tatleh by the locals.

By the time Kroum is finished Le Matbokh will be but one of a number of cafes and international-style restaurants at the resort.

Kroum plans to develop its 140,000 square meters of land with more than just a hotel resort. The project, which is slated to take six more years, will include a number of cafes and restaurants, a small shopping village peddling local crafts and foodstuffs, a second hotel and villas for long-term residents. Kroum is also planting fields of its own fresh fruits and produce to service its own eateries.

Still, Accary readily agreed that the political situation had made it a less-than-ideal time to open up a new hotel in the country, where tourism has slowed to a snails pace.

Last year, Ehden canceled its annual music and entertainment festival after violence in Tripoli, sparked by the war in neighboring Syria, had scared off international performers.

This year, the political situation has deteriorated in other parts of the country, though the Ehden Festival is prepared to go ahead as planned starting the first week of August.

Accary was surprisingly upbeat about the season. We depend greatly on expats returning to the area, and they always come even if theres war, he said. Also the new trend for the past three years is [people] from Beirut. Beirutis love to escape.

For more information about Kroum, visit its Facebook page at www.facebook.com/KroumEhden or call for rates at 79-100-507.

Copyright The Daily Star 2013.