Wednesday, November 10, 2004

The sands of Hatta form an impressive backdrop to the perfect desert experience, says Joanna Longworth

The red sun sets majestically, casting an orange glow over the sand dunes. For as far as the eye can see there is nothing but the ripple of the desert. This is the type of scene one can expect camping out here in the UAE. It's a picture that cannot fail to please.

Many people, however, only ever witness this kind of sunset from behind the wheel of a four by four, preferring the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle to the sand. It's a shame but the full camping experience isn't for everyone.

For some it is the very life of life, the answer to the constraints of modern living, a way of getting in touch with the inner self and invigorating the soul. For others it is an unpleasant burden not worth bearing. The uncomfortable nights, the sand in food, the dirt under fingernails makes camping a miserable torture for many.

A drive into the sands, though enjoyable, does not do justice to the desert. As many a Bedouin will testify, a person can only truly appreciate the desert sitting around a campfire, followed by a night sleeping under a blanket of stars.

There are few places in the world where camping is as accessible as it is here in the UAE. Unlike Europe, camping is not confined to a few over crowded campsites, where tents sit next to each other cheek by jowl. Here there are vast open stretches of desert just waiting to be explored. The possibilities are endless. There are beautiful places to camp both near and far.

For instance, just half-an-hour out of Dubai towards Hatta the golden sands turn an exquisite shade of red, lending itself to the perfect camping experience. Within an hour and a half's drive is The East Coast, which offers picturesque mountains and the clear waters of the Gulf of Oman.

Over at Ras Al Khaimah is the entrance to the impressive Wadi Bih, with its towering crags and hundreds of wonderful camping spots. Close to Al Ain is the extraordinary Jebel Hafeet, a stand-alone mountain which rises abruptly from the flatlands. This impressive list goes on.

Another bonus of camping in this region is the weather. The winter affords the perfect conditions. Even in the summer there are many options, particularly higher up in the mountains.

Camping does require a bit of logistical planning, which is another reason why so many people are put off it. Getting the right equipment is important and can help turn a prospective nightmare into a once in a lifetime experience.

Sleeping kit, food, drink and something to cook on are a must. A 4x4 isn't necessary for every camp spot in the UAE, as there are many places just off tarmac roads. That said, with a 4x4 the options are far greater.

If driving on sand, there are a few rules which need to be adhered to: for instance, reducing the tyre pressure first is an absolute must. It increases the surface area of the tyre in contact with the sand and spreads the weight of the vehicles, giving it more traction.

It is also imperative to drive in a convoy. Heading out into the desert in just one car can be very dangerous, especially in unknown territory.

There are very good 4x4 guidebooks available which give detailed instruction on how to negotiate the dunes and prepare for a trip. The best option is to take an experienced desert driver with you. Getting stuck in the sand is a problem, but most situations are easily resolved with a bit of know how.

In fact, no camping trip is truly complete without a few setbacks and challenges; it's part of the fun.

When did you start camping?
When I was about three my parents, uncles and aunts used to take me into the outback in Australia. I have seen photos. We did trips like this throughout my childhood. I remember running around outside by the fire, as kids we loved it.

It was always great to be away from the city and for the family to be together. We always had a lot of fun. Sometimes we would go canoeing and fishing. We felt very free spirited, there were no constraints on us and there were never other people around.

What is your favourite camping experience in this region?
There are so many but one of my favourite things to do is to take a GPS co-ordinate on one trip when we find a special spot, then we re-find that location on another trip.

We have gone to some really great places with my parents and other people who have been out here for a long time. We have gone into the Empty Quarter doing that. I love it when the journey takes half a day or all day, when you get right away and feel very isolated.

The beauty is also in the driving; going through the dunes and through the different landscapes is a refreshing break from the normal cityscape of Dubai. I also really like camping in wadi beds when there is a little bit of water.

Camping next to the sea is another wonderful experience because you can wake up in the morning and plunge straight into the sea. My favourite places are the ones when you can't hear any roads or cars, when you are right out of the city.

How do you find sleeping in the desert?
I can sleep really easily in the desert. I actually don't like sleeping in a tent. I love being in the fresh air and being able to be outside.

I find air mattresses very comfortable and one of my favourite things to do is lie in bed looking at stars and the moon, waiting for shooting stars.

Why else do you love it so much?
I think there is nothing better in life sitting around a bonfire, with a drink in hand, having a good chat with friends.

How do you deal with the discomfort of camping?
When I haven't been camping for a while I do feel a bit dirty and sandy on the first night, when you don't have a shower. But after that you get used to it and stop noticing it as much.

Many people don't like camping. What do you say to them?
With my friends who are apprehensive I just encourage them to try it once because when they do they love it. One of my friends had never camped before he came with me. He was very anti the whole idea, now he is really into it.

Don't the creepy crawlies upset you?
I have found scorpions and a puff adder once but I really don't worry about them. First, because they are nothing compared to Australia and you don't see them that often. I am sure they are more scared of use than we are of them.

What is your favourite camping recipe?
Toasted marshmallows is a favourite but top of list has got to be banana and Mars Bars wrapped in foil and baked on the barbecue.

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