05 August 2009

EHDEN: Palestinian oak trees. Fruit orchards. Arid hills and natural springs. Medieval ruins and hill top churches. Cedar forests. Such are the attractions awaiting hikers who tackle the Sir al-Dinnieh-Ehden section of the Lebanon Mountain Trail (LMT). This particular trail begins two hours north of Beirut, in Sir al-Dinnieh, at an altitude of about 1,100 meters. Hikers are greeted by an assortment of wildlife that ranges from juniper trees to buckthorn thistles.

Walking across the arid hills, stopping at every other oak tree for a sip and a breath, one comes across magnificent rows of fossils, and small alcoves of zataar and sumac plants.

As hikers approach the top of a mountain, the terrain gives way to a herd of goats and its shepherd. While the shepherd beckons his goats closer, the peeling of his horn travels through the knolls, which harken back to biblical times, as if the passing of time never graced these nooks and crannies.

After leaving behind the ancient ruins and views of mountaintop churches, past the olive trees and natural springs, one witnesses the magnificent shades of green blanketing the hills, as the trail curves in and continues through the Ehden Nature Reserve.

The array of trees is a stunning sight and upon stepping into the forest, one feels an immediate change in temperature.

"The variations of the hike were astounding. We went through such different types of geography and biodiversity," remarked Jake Friedman, an American student participating in the American University of Beirut's summer language program. "Where else can you expect to see shepherds and cedars on the same day?"

The LMT was established in 2006 at the initiative of ECODIT, an environmental consulting company based in Virginia, with funding from USAID.

The LMT is comprised of 26 sections, stretching from Qobeiyat in the north to Marjayoun in the south, connecting nearby villages along the way. The trail, designed to be hiked in 26 days, ranges in biodiversity and difficulty (multiple levels are offered).

The trail is maintained by the Lebanon Mountain Trail Association, a non-profit organization that's in charge of maintaining the routes, by trail clearing and glazing.

Many associate Lebanon with rolling hills and cedar forests, but these are easily eclipsed by the allures of Beirut and more well-known sites, such as Jeita Grotto, or the Roman temples of Baalbek. And it seems that the LMT has yet to make a big dent in attracting foreigners or other visitors.

According to Michel Mousarege of Liban Trek, an eco-tourism company, the overwhelming majority of his clients are local Lebanese, meaning that hiking remains a hidden gem in Lebanon's summer tourism industry.

As a veteran hiker who was active in the development of the LMT, Mousarege added, "The land is for the people; mountains are meant to be hiked and explored."

Many locals indulge in the healthy habit of weekend hikes. For Serge Soued, from eco-tourism firm Lebanese Adventure,"hiking offers multiple dimensions: you have nature and sport, you have flora and fauna, and at the same time, a chance to socialize."

There is much interaction throughout the trip, as hikers share snacks of dried fruits and trade stories throughout the day.

"I got a better sense of the culture of the country [by] interacting with other hikers on the trip," Friedman remarked. "Lebanon in my mind had been its nightlife and ruins, but [from the hike] I got to know a different aspect of the country, which I never knew before."

Of the ten or so eco-tourism operators in Lebanon, seven specialize in hiking trips, and their activities are publicized in the likes of l'Agenda Culturale, or online. The single-day price ranges from LL25-45,000, with overnight trips costing more. Trips are organized every weekend, and companies also offer slight variations on their conventional routes.

There are many options for visitors to choose from: Cyclamen, EcoClub, Esprit Nomade, Lebanon Outdoors, Vamos Todos and Neos Kids are also active in the hiking scene.

Hiking organizers remind participants to bring a water flask, extra socks, durable shoes, insect repellent, and a first aid kit. Sunscreen is a must in the summer, and remember to pack lunch and snacks.

Copyright The Daily Star 2009.