30 May 2016

DORA, Lebanon: Its no secret that Beirut has the most vibrant nightlife in the Arab world. The New York Times even listed the city as the top destination to visit in 2009, though the most talked about venues often in Hamra or Mar Mikhail remain exclusive to those wealthy enough to afford them. For everyone else, the citys suburbs host several other cafes that welcome anyone on a night out. Dora in particular is where many of Beiruts marginalized communities meet at their own popular spots despite the little money they have.

One such hangout opened up four months ago under the guise of a South Asian market. The spot has already become a regular place where African and Asian migrants relish the night in the company of working-class Lebanese nationals.

This place is for people of any nationality to come and have a good time, said the owner, a man with a large tattoo of Jesus on his right arm, and who asked not to be identified. I dont close this place until 3 or 4 in the morning. Sundays are our busiest nights because thats when foreign workers have the day off.

Away from the loud music and live shows on Mar Mikhail is another popular spot called Gustino cafe, which is located in Doras roundabout next to Byblos Bank. This is where Nikel, a 23-year-old woman from Ghana, was socializing with her roommate Anita Monday night.

We come here because we like to treat ourselves, Nikel told The Daily Star, while taking a swig of her vodka energy drink.

Do you really want to know what we like to do? We like to drink and smoke white Marlboro cigarettes. Thats what we like, added Anita, before the two women broke out laughing.

Anita and Nikel grew up with each other in Ghana. The latter used to be a doctor before she came to Beirut to work in a hotel. While observing a woman collecting empty plastic bottles in hopes of selling them later on, Nikel said she admires her for doing what she must to earn a living.

Whatever your job is you need to respect yourself. It doesnt matter if youre a doctor, a prostitute or a cleaner. What matters is that you respect yourself, Nikel said before reaching for another cigarette.

For these women, self-respect involves setting time aside to have fun every so often. Thats also the mindset of Nour, a transgender woman who spends many nights at small cafes in the area with her friends. She said that though life is difficult for the LBGT community in Beirut, she hangs out at some places where shes comfortable to socialize with her peers.

I come to this place all the time, Nour said while waving at the owner of the ragged cafe facing her.

There is also a nightclub around here where we like to go. We like it there because of all the hot guys dancing, she added giggling.

Alcohol is also considerably cheaper in Dora than in most bars located on the citys conventional party streets. A beer typically costs no more than $2, which many drink while smoking shisha. After all, the urge to have a good time should never be exclusive to those who can afford a night out in the central districts of Beirut.

Copyright The Daily Star 2016.