The subtle difference between a shopping hub and a fashion hub is that while a shopping hub boasts the variety of Milan, Paris or London, a fashion hub endorses the world's emerging brands. Buyers are tiring of the mass-produced and designers have chiselled into their desire for more distinctive pieces, which led to some striking new collections on show in Dubai recently.

Paspaley, the purveyor of fine pearls, unveiled a unique collection featuring keshi pearls. Keshi pearls, more commonly known as seed pearls, are made purely of nacre and evolve into gleaming, unusual forms which gives them a unique allure. Each Paspaley pearl is nurtured for up to six years in remote pearl farms on the northwest coast of Australia, which is home to some of the world's most prized pearl oysters.

Paspaley's new pieces combine large Keshi pearls and pave diamonds in 18kt white gold. One particularly dramatic piece resembles a garland of white flowers with diamond leaves sparkling in-between the blossom of pearls.

Tawhid Abdullah, managing director for DamasDamas, the partner of Paspaley in the UAE, said, "Keshi have always posed a unique challenge to jewellery designers. They come in a variety of charming shades and are known for their lustre and uncommon iridescence. In its 2007 to 2008 collection, Paspaley displays its design innovation through singular and marvellous pieces that focus on the natural beauty of the non-traditional shapes of these treasures."

Another gem for jewellery in Dubai is Levant Jewellery, a luxury jewel and design store, which has just announced the opening of its second outlet in Dubai. The first store opened a few years back in Mina al Salam. At its launch in March, guests were wowed by the treasure trove of innovative jewellery design that was presented. The new store will glisten with original designs of necklaces, bracelets, diamond rings and sets from Leviev, Scavia, Palmiero, Gavello, amongst others.

Fabulous
This host of designers provides a fabulous spectrum of jewellery; Leviev is known for its collection of rare diamonds, while Scavia is an Italian house of sumptuous designs. Since it opened, Levant jewellery boutique has managed to please the most design conscious buyers with brands like Schoeffel, Hellmuth, Giorgio Visconti, and many others.

DamasDamas presented inspiring collections from Italy. Marco Bicego is the designer who redefined "everyday luxury" in the jewellery market. The Veneto-based jewellery house brings a fresh edge to old world Italian craftsmanship, combining precious materials in a rainbow of colours in drop earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.

Bicego said, "All my creations must be manipulated by hand in order for them to preserve a unique and luxurious experience. Our uniquely crafted pieces are designed to make a statement, yet personal enough to be worn every day. This rare combination has attracted cosmopolitan women to our creations."

However, it is the understated beauty of the designs that makes them so desirable. In his Confetti collection, for instance, the designer 'threads' organically shaped golden droplets with a variety of semi-precious stones and Tahitian pearls to produce a unique collection of necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings.

Yellow gold is the shining star of this collection, guiding the jewellery back to old-school glamour. The high-end Confetti Couture line literally reaches for the stars, and elegantly blends white gold with pearls and diamond pave which twinkle on gypsy-style chains, drop earrings and rings.

Bicego's Eclisse line draws its inspiration from the eclipse and offers jewels with textured gold surfaces and the shimmer of rose cut diamonds. The collection features pendants, earrings and rings that shadow the moon's mysterious surface.

Paradise
Paradise is a more playful collection and strings together a peppy clash of different coloured beads and gems to produce vibrant chains, bracelets and drop earrings while Marrakech embraces the 'guitar-string' creation of jewels such as chains, bracelets and earrings, with a liberal sprinkling of diamonds.

Another Italian designer, Stefan Hafner, looked to a late genius for his inspiration, and unveiled his Monet ring collection at Baselworld 2008. The dazzling new line pays tribute to one of the greatest works of renowned 19th century painter, Claude Monet.

Monet's 'Nympheas,' the acclaimed French impressionist painting depicting water lilies on a pond, is interpreted by Stefan Hafner using diamonds, emeralds, rubies and white gold. Blushing ruby blossoms, emerald green leaves and delicate diamond buds seemingly float on white gold, capturing the essence of the artwork and giving it a contemporary twist.

Tawhid said, "Stefan Hafner has always drawn inspiration from nature's wonders. Each piece is a unique take on the delicate and transient beauty of flowers. The Monet Ring collection captures the spirit of the famous painting in the most precious materials, offering art that one can appreciate and wear."

Apart from the Monet Ring collection, Stefan Hafner has created four highly versatile lines such as Sogno, Rugiada and Venus Diamond. This is not the first time that the jewellery house has drawn inspiration from great works of art. Its Venus Collection, which celebrates the birth of spring, is inspired by Botticelli's Primavera painting.

The Monet ring collection is now available at the Stefan Hafner Boutique in Burjuman Centre and select DamasDamas Les Exclusives Boutiques across the UAE.

DamasDamas has also unleashed a daring new watch collection. Pequignet brings together the best of French and Swiss watch-making traditions. Didier Leibundgut, chief executive of the brand, said, "You can expect something really original and exquisite in the new collection. It is a combination of savoir-faire, creativity and heritage that will capture the imagination of the luxury market in the UAE. I am sure these timepieces will be appreciated by all those who know what quality craftsmanship is all about. We share our passion with those who proudly wear the values of Pequignet on their wrist."

The traditional French brand has launched three models in the UAE, Moorea skeleton chronographs for men in limited edition, Moorea collection for ladies and 18 carat 5N red gold models. The Moorea Skeleton Chronographs is contemporary and sophisticated with a brown alligator strap, the Moorea is elegant and timeless with a stunning link design and the 5N red gold models are strikingly modern.

Prestigious
Tiret, one of the prestigious watch brands in the Binhendi portfolio, also presented three new, very intriguing, timepieces as part of the Tiret New York Gotham collection; Tiret Gotham Automatic Chrono, Tiret Gotham GMT and Tiret Gotham Power Reserve. This collection is the epitome of luxury.

The precision of elite Swiss watch making and private sale experience defines Tiret New York as a stand out brand in the prestige sector. It is unique in its inaugural design and technical innovation. The Tiret New York Gotham collection considers itself a "world premiere".

The dark days of having to leave Dubai to replenish your wardrobe are long gone. The deafening cry for designer labels and boutiques has been heard, and Dubai's malls are now a walk-in wardrobe for the style-savvy. Dubai's innovative jewellery collections further endorse the city as a fashion capital.

Marc Robinson, the man behind Dubai fashion week, commented, "Dubai currently has the grand slam of tennis. We're hoping that eventually, Dubai will become the fifth grand slam of fashion. So far we have London, New York, Paris and Milan. Dubai will soon be on the map."

"All my creations must be manipulated by hand in order for them to preserve a unique and luxurious experience."

© Banker Middle East 2008

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